Note

Installation Instructions For #R6

Tools required: 5/32 allen wrench, T15 torx wrench, and a flathead screwdriver (torque wrench recommended)

1. Make sure magazine is removed and chamber is empty.

2. If not already done the front sight must be removed for install. I removed mine by cutting off the plastic sight from its metal bushing with a dremmel tool. I then used a heat gun set at 800 degrees and heated the bushing for about 4 minutes at which time the bushing easily slid off and the residue from the loctite that held the bushing on could be wiped clean . After doing this I believe if you wanted to keep the sight in a reusable condition, you would not have to cut the plastic sight off the metal bushing. I believe that placing heat on the barrel adjacent to the bushing would achieve the same result though would likely take a bit longer.

3.Remove stock forend. After removed your barrel may be able to turn, try to make sure it doesn't throughout install. It can move a little but you don't want it unscrewing much. Newer guns are pinned instead of loctited, if pinned this isn’t an issue. Also not all loctited barrels are loose.

4. Place coupler (part# 6 in exploded view diagram) over barrel and slide all the way back until cutout face contacts the lock nut face. Make sure prior to this that the lock nut of the gun is screwed down to the desired tightness as this controls how tight the gun locks into the firing position when the trigger guard is shut. The coupler contacting the lock nut face prevents the lock nut from loosening. Be sure that the clamping holes of the coupler are oriented down and the Red Lion Logo (lion's head) is on the ejection side of gun.

5. Place part #'s 7, 8, &9 in place as shown in diagram if they were previously removed (these are shipped in place). Tighten only #7 cap screws into the corresponding #9 nuts until coupler just turns on barrel with minimal clearance.

6. Place parts #8 and #9 into place according to the diagram if not already done so. IMPORTANT:Before tightening make sure the gun is unfolded and locked into its firing position, this orients the square back plate of gun that the coupler orients off of. After making sure coupler is slid all the way toward the receiver with the cutout face of coupler contacting lock nut face, then tighten #8 cap screw into corresponding #9 nut until the coupler ears contact (6ft/lbs MAX, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, this doesn’t hold anything on, it just orients the forend to the square plate) the square back plate of the gun that contacts the polymer reciever.

7.Tighten #7 cap screws into #9 nuts. This clamps the barrel and prevents movement forward and back (while also locking the barrel relationship to the square plate). If using a torque wrench, tighten to 9 ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench just make it really tight, basically as tight as you can make it (checking this explained next). When shooting for the first time check to see if a gap opens between where the coupler and lock nut contact (if adjusted properly the lock nut should not tighten further when shooting then where set in step 5) every 1 or 2 shots for atleast the first ten shots (try to have a good purchase on the forend when shooting for this check to make sure its getting a good jolt). If a gap should appear then the forend is moving forward and #7 cap screws need tightened into #9 nuts more. This gap check is mostly helpful in allowing those without a torque wrench determine whether they have #7+#9 hardware tightened properly but should also be done for those using torque wrenches as a double check.

8.Now part #s 5, 4, 2 , and 1 must be assembled into one unit. Place #4 (threaded ID end first) over the nose of part #5. Then place part #2 over the nose of part #5 (see diagram).Place part #3 screw (6-32x3/8 torx plus flathead) into the countersunk holes in part #2 and screw into the threaded holes in the OD of the nose of part #5. Just snug till all 8 are in place, then tighten. Try to snug and then tighten opposing screws, like you would tighten lug nuts on a tire. Now place the endcap (part #1) in the front of the forend (part#2) and use 2 more part #3 screws to secure. Use of Blue Loctite 242 Threadlocker (medium strength) or other manufacturer equivalent is recommended for #3 screws (6-32x3/8 torx plus flathead) , a little bit goes a long way so place just a little drop on a spot on the front of the screw thread and it will spread around when screwed in. Blue Loctite 242 Threadlocker will take a set in 10 minutes and should fully cure in 24hrs and be ready for use.

9.Place part # 5, 4, 2, and 1 unit over the barrel (part # 5 first). Point muzzle upward. Slide back till you are able to thread part # 4 (knurled nut) onto the coupler (part #6) that was installed previously. Thread until coupler (part# 6) is able to contact forend adapter (part# 5) and then orient so that the mating tangs engage, then finish tightening part # 4 down to lock into place.

To index the forend: Unscrew knurled nut till forend can be lifted up (approx 1/8" movement needed) and spun into next location (90 degree increments), let the forend back down for tangs to engage, tighten knurled nut to lock in place. If knurled nut seems gritty when tightening and loosening, apply a small amount of light oil to threads